Day 26

Kearsarge Pass to Mt. Williamson Hotel Independence, CA

Resupply day!

I woke up sleepy in my tent in the middle of a dream. It was a conversation that I was having with my sister about normal things. It was as if she was right there with me. The thing that made it exceptions was that I heard Serena’s voice again. It had been so long I was afraid I had forgotten it. I tried hard to go back to sleep so I could stay in the dream but I was already awake. Instead, I laid on my mattress pad and cried in thankfulness. I hadn’t forgotten her voice. It was still in my memories.

The morning was filled with those thoughts.

I know when I told people I wanted to do this hike solo, a lot of people thought I was foolish. But I really believe there are so many things that I can’t access unless I am actually alone. The noise of every day intrudes and squeezes out the space that I wish I could make for my memories and myself.

I packed up and headed to do the remaining 4.5 miles to the Onion Valley Camp Ground.

The hike up the pass was one of the easiest and nicest ones I had done so far. I got to the summit and asked a group of 30 somethings to take my photo. They agreed and we started to talk. When I realized they were leaving the same time as I was … I asked them for a ride into Independence. The shuttle would come at 3PM, but I was going to be out at 11 and didn’t want to wait the additional 4 hours.

They agreed and we all started to hike down together.

They were all middle school teachers in NYC. The woman, Sara and I spent most of our time talking. It was her first backpacking trip. One of the men ahead in the group did this annually and invited all of the co-workers to come. It was nice to have someone to talk to on the way down.

We got to the bottom and the guys had already pulled the car around. I was so immensely grateful that I was able to get a ride. Independence was 11 miles and over 5,000 vertical gain away from the trail head. It was also extremely hot and there was no cloud coverage.

They dropped me off at the post office in Independence, which was on the way for them. I thanked them profusely and waved goodbye. I didn’t know where the Mt. Williamson was but I had cell phone signal and could find out. Turns out the town of Independence is only 1 Main Street and the post office was in the middle. I needed to turn right, walk five blocks and I was there.

I got to the hotel and there was a flurry of activity. There was a German hiker that I had seen earlier the previous day, she was there wanting to get into the hiker box (free stuff left by other hikers for hikers) because the post office was closed. I came face to face with Andrea, a woman I gave my body glide to on the way into Muir Trail Ranch because she was in a lot of pain from thigh chafing. I didn’t recognize her because she had showered and was in street clothes. Then, I ran into the owners.

I hadn’t called to let them know I wasn’t going to be using the shuttle and I threw them in a loop. I apologized profusely and offered to wait somewhere in town if my room wasn’t ready. I just needed to charge my battery pack while I waited.

Emiline, a young woman about my age was checking me in. She thought my room could be ready but wasn’t sure. She was also afraid she put my resupply on the wrong room if that was the case.

She came back and confirmed. The room was ready, my resupply was moved into it and I could check in.

I was so thankful.

Then she handed me a Tupperware with Epsom salts in it, to sooth my feet. Told me they would do my laundry and there were loaner clothes I could borrow and gave me the WiFi password.

I felt so cared for and was smiling so much.

Then, I got to me room.

It was adorable.

Quilts, air condition and outlets.

The artwork was watercolors of the local scenery and there was a new fuel canister, my resupply bucket (Ryan had decorated to match my other buckets) with a box I knew contained my boots. When I got closer I noticed there was also a hand written note.

I went into the bathroom and noticed how clean it was. The towels were brown, which made me laugh. Of course. Hikers are covered in dirt and brown towels clean better. I noticed the laundry bucket and was giddy for the idea of clean clothes to wear.

I told myself before I was allowed to enjoy any of my amenities, I needed to coordinate my return trip home.

Initially I wasn’t sure how far I would make it on the JMT (because of all of the snow and water reports) and didn’t want to have reservations waiting for me if I wasn’t going to make it to the end. Now that I was this far, I was certain I would make it.

I plugged in my phone and sat on the floor next to the outlet while I tried to work it out.

I needed to find out what my transportation options were out of Whitney Portal.

Hitchhike or hire a shuttle for $160.

That’s easy. I’ll be hitchhiking.

Next… from Lone Pine to a major airport.

Hitchhike. I’d rather not for how long that would take. One thing if it’s 15ish minutes. Another if it’s a few hours.

Shuttle to Reno.

Shuttle to Bishop- to Mammoth Lakes which I was sure there was a bus to Yosemite … then I could take the same bus I took into Yosemite.

I looked at flights from Reno to Seattle.

$675

That’s a big nope.

Then I looked from Mammoth.

$490 and only on Monday the 26th.

Eek. Not ideal.

I looked at Fresno.

$219

…

Looks like Fresno it is.

I booked the flight.

Then worked backwards to book each of the buses.

24th Yosemite to Fresno.

23rd Mammoth to Yosemite

22nd Lone Pine to Mammoth.

I looked at the clock and I had been puzzling this out.

After I finished checking out … I had a thought. What if I rented a car and stayed in the car.

Turns out there was no car rental in Lone Pine. My route was still the best one.

Once the stress of booking the return trip was done, I decided to enjoy the luxuries I knew were waiting for me.

First, I opened my resupply bucket from Ryan. He didn’t need to send it in a bucket, but it was adorable. He had drawn Keiko on the green Tape and attached a single googley eye to the outside (since that’s all he had left). When I got the bucket open, he had included flip flops, vegan cookies and a note! I was so excited to get all of these! The flip flops were going to be a game changer for my time on the trail.

Then, I turned to the box.

My keen boots were inside of them. My trail runners, which were new when I started the trip, were losing its tread. I didn’t trust them to hold up while I completed Mt. Whitney. I was glad that I had boots that I could count on.

Then the note.

I was surprised when I began reading it. It wasn’t from any one I expected. It was from Ellen from the first night at the backpackers camp! She had stayed at the Williamson a few days before and remembered I had a reservation as well. Her note was to let me know she was thinking about me and shared her contact info. I was touched.

It’s been amazing the people I’ve met on the trail and how fast we have bonded with one another. I was thankful for her note and having someone to share stories with later. I took a photo of the note (in case I lost it) and put it in my map bag. I would email Ellen when I got back to Seattle.

Then, I went to take the first of three showers.

The first one was heavenly. Hot water is such a moral booster. I grimaced at all of the dirt I could see coming off of me. 10 days with no shower is a long time.

I got out, put on my loaner clothes and carried my laundry basket out to the office. In a few hours I would have clean clothes again.

I went back to my room and grabbed my wallet. I should get something to eat, then I’d come back and do the epsom salt soak. Then, after that I’d do another shower and wash my hair.

All of it was amazing.

I finished scrubbing and making myself as clean as possible and my laundry arrived.

I packed up my pack, posted some blog posts and decided to go to bed on a soft bed with real quilts.